Cà phê bệt is a casual, youth-driven way of drinking coffee that emerged in Saigon in the 1990s. Unlike ornate cafés with elaborate menus and eye-catching décor, cà phê bệt is about sitting on the ground, or whatever you can sit on – small mats, newspapers, small plastic stools, sometimes just your shoes – often at the city’s most scenic crossroads.
For many Saigonese, cà phê bệt is more than a way of drinking coffee. It’s a way of life, a cultural signpost for a fast-paced city that still craves connection. Early mornings are the golden hour. Around 5 or 6 a.m, you’ll see groups clustered around Notre-Dame Cathedral, The Central Post Office, 30/4 Park or Turtle Lake with cups in hand: from iced milk coffee, black coffee, iced tea to peach tea, chatting as the hum of traffic rises. That quiet early hour, combined with the cool, green surroundings, makes for a remarkably tranquil experience.
Saigon is the ideal destination for trying cà phê bệt, but it isn’t the only place. Hanoi, Da Lat, Can Tho have their own versions. Hanoi’s, for instance, tends to be quieter, often tucked into the Old Quarter.
What Sets Saigon’s Sidewalk Coffee Apart
- The price: Remarkably affordable in an increasingly expensive city. A cup typically costs 10,000–30,000 VND, covering staples like cà phê sữa đá (iced milk coffee), black coffee on ice, or bạc xỉu (sweet milk coffee with a lighter coffee ratio).
- How it works: Vendors run compact mobile setups. Iced tea sits in large jugs; pre-brewed coffee comes from bottles prepared at home. When you order, the vendor pours, adds ice, hands it over, and takes payment immediately - just in case urban management officers suddenly show up.
You can enjoy cà phê bệt in Saigon at any hour, but watching the city wake with a cup in hand is quintessentially Saigon.
Why Young Vietnamese (Me Included) Love It
Cà phê bệt is simple and approachable – well suited to modern lifestyle and modest budgets. People trade comfortable seating for the easy, unpretentious charm you won’t find in upscale cafés.
In today’s technologically-driven world, face-to-face time has become a luxury. Today's youth are keeping cà phê bệt alive: instead of sleeping in or scrolling at home, they meet outside, sit on the ground, and talk. It’s a chance for Vietnam’s booming youth to connect; out of sight of teachers in class, professors in lecture halls, parents at home, and even other social pressures.
In many ways, this coffee culture mirrors Southern character: friendly, open, and easygoing.
So Why Was I Shooed Off Just For Drinking Coffee?
One unforgettable (but fun) memory with cà phê bệt is getting chased away by urban management officers. It was an August Saturday behind Notre-Dame Cathedral. My friend and I were fully immersed in our little corner of the street when someone shouted: “Urban management!”
Chaos ensued. Motorbikes shot out of the park in a noisy stream. Tourists stared, puzzled at why young Vietnamese seemed so wary of the authorities. A bride posing near the cathedral startled and even dropped her bouquet.
By reflex, my friend and I darted toward the wall of Notre-Dame Cathedral, then cut across to Hoa Binh Primary School. Our camera apps were still open for a “check-in”, handbags and jackets abandoned, freshly-poured coffees splashed across the pavement.
There’s a joke: “In Saigon, if you’ve done cà phê bệt but never been chased away by the urban management officers, you’re missing out.”
But why be moved on for having coffee? Is cà phê bệt illegal?
The problem isn’t the coffee. It's the business surrounding it.
One issue is the use of public space. Vendors often set up in areas not intended for gatherings, while customers spill onto sidewalks or leave their motorbikes parked along the street, disrupting traffic and pedestrians alike.
Cleanliness is another issue. Not everyone takes responsibility for their trash: empty cups, plastic bags or scraps of food are sometimes left behind.
Then there’s the matter of licensing. Most sidewalk vendors operate informally, essentially as mobile businesses with no official permits. Obtaining one is notoriously difficult, since it requires sponsorship from a formal organization - something most independent sellers simply don’t have.
Where To Grab Cà Phê Bệt Scot-Free
Despite the risks, there are spots where sidewalk coffee is generally tolerated or organized. Consider these five locations:
1. Notre-Dame Cathedral Sidewalk Coffee
- Address: Paris Commune Square, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
- Price range: 30,000 – 50,000 VND
- Parking tip: The most convenient option is the HCMC Youth Cultural House nearby.
2. Turtle Lake Sidewalk Coffee
- Address: Cong Truong Quoc Te Roundabout, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City.
- Price range: 20,000 – 30,000 VND
- Parking tip: You can park at the Youth Cultural House, private lots around the lake, or cafés/restaurants with parking services such as Highlands Coffee and Phúc Long.
3. 30/4 Park Sidewalk Coffee
- Address: 178 Pasteur Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
- Price range: 20,000 – 40,000 VND
- Parking tip: The Youth Cultural House right next to the park is the most convenient. From Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, you can also park at the General Sciences Library.
4. Saigon Opera House Sidewalk Coffee
- Address: 7 Lam Son Square, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
- Price range: 25,000 – 40,000 VND
- Parking tip: at the Opera House parking lot. Alternatively, there are plenty of private parking spaces along Nguyen Hue pedestrian street.
5. Alexandre De Rhode Sidewalk Coffee
- Address: Alexandre de Rhodes Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
- Price range: 10,000–15,000 VND
- Parking tip: Near the cathedral side, use the Youth Cultural House or the Central Post Office lots; near Independence Palace, the Ho Chi Minh City Journalists Association offers parking.